Bespoke Tailoring
since 1966
Call us today on
9328 6418

At Work

At Fullin Tailoring the customer will feel relaxed and the foundations are laid for a relationship of trust between the customer and cutter that may last for decades. While the customer talks about himself and his hibits and expresses his preferences for the cut and fabric of his suit, the cutter forms a picture of the customer from what he sees and hears, and working on that basis develops the contours of the suit the customer wants.

 

Step 1. When they have agreed on the cut of the suit and all its details, customer and cutter choose a fabric together. The cutter will tactfully guide a new customer in what he thinks is the right direction, and the customer would be wise to listen to what is usually very good advice. Step 2. When taking measurements we also note down any physical peculiarities, using a discreet code. DRS means “dropped right shoulder”; FS stands for “forward stomach”; and BL 1,2 or 3 means “bow legs to the first, second or third degree.” Step 3. The customer who visit Fullin Tailoring for the first time, after unhappy experiences of ready-made suits, will find that he need not to apologise for his physical imperfections or be penalised for them by clothes that hang badly. Even if he has a round stomach or flat buttocks, his trousers will fit perfectly.
 Step 4. A least five different measurements are taken for the trousers. In what can be a rather embarrassing situation, the process is carried out discreetly and with the neutrality also shown by doctors in handling the more intimate parts of the body.  Step 5. It is no coincidence that the cut of the suit is discussed before measurements are taken. After all, the cutter must always know in advance how high on the hips the trousers are to rest. If the customer wants traditional trousers kept up by suspenders, the outside leg length must be longer than if the trousers will sit on the hips.  Step 6. After taking measurements, the cutter draws the shape of jacket, trousers, and vest on brown paper. He uses a cleverly devised calculating system and instinct he has developed over the years. This cutting is the architectural plan of the suit.
Step 7. The separate parts of the suit are first cut our in paper and then laid on the fabric to form a patterm. Step 8. Next the cutter drawers on the fabric around the edges of the pattern with tailor’s chalk.  Step 9. In working he must make sure that as far as possible the patterning of the fabric matches exactly at the seams when the suit is make up.
Step 10. The cutting is done with shear, and course by hand. Like the taking of measurements, this is an important moment in making a customs made suit. The cut will be adjusted again after fitting. Step 11. Sewing up the separate parts of the jacket, trousers, and vest is the job of the coat maker, trouser maker, and waistcoat maker. They baste the pieces of the suit together for the first fitting with white cotton thread. Step 12.The first fitting could theoretically take place only couple of days later, but famous tailors like Fullin Tailoring usually have long waiting lists, and it is generally several weeks before the customer can come in for this first fitting.
Step 13. A the first fitting the customer sees the material he has chosen taking shape as a suit for the first time. This is an exciting moment, since up to now the suit has existed only in the minds of the customer and the cutter. A this stage everything about it can still be altered. Step 14. The suit is now taken apart again and goes back to the various tailors – in this picture, to the coat maker. They make up the second version of the suit, including the alterations agreed at the first fitting. Step 15. To give the suit its shape, interlining canvas, cotton, felt, horsehair are sewn into the material itself with countless small stiches. The process takes as much less time in mass-produced jackets, where interfacings are glued into place, but he result is nowhere as good as when the work ins done by hand.
Step 16. During the process of sewing the tailor constantly presses the fabric with an iron. He dampens the fabric first and then presses it into shape with the hot iron. The pressing and interlinings give the suit its three-dimensions shape. The elastic nature of horsehair helps to build curves permanently into the fabric, for instance over the chest or in the lapels. Step 17. In Victorian times tailors apparently need up to a dozen fittings before a suit was properly adjusted. Neither the tailor nor their customers have so much time to spare today. As a rule, it takes three fittings before the suit can be made up. But that is only on the first occasion: on going back to the same firm later, a customer will usually need only one fitting. Step 18. After the measuring and cutting, making the buttonholes marks another decisive stage. Only when the suit is to the customer’s satisfaction are buttonholes added. Again, it is a labour-intensive process. It takes several hours to stick around the buttonholes with silk thread.
Step 19. The last craftsman to have a hand in making the suit is the presser. He givers the suit its final form with the iron. No one but a professional presser should iron the suit later when it’s badly creased or when dry cleaning is necessary. Step 20. Once the suit is properly pressed the customer can come in for that long-awaited final fitting. If he now thinks the suit is right and expresses his satisfaction, then the job is done. After weeks or even months, the customer can go home wearing his new suit.